5/07/2012

Farro

Popular farro is not one kind of wheat; rather, the term is commonly used when referring to three ancient wheat varieties still cultivated in Italy: farro piccolo (also known by the German einkorn), farro medio (also known as emmer, the Hebrew word for mother) and farro grande (also known as spelt, see below). Ancient wheat varieties such as these grow well in poor soil but are less amenable to modern farming methods and have thus fallen by the wayside.

Emmer was first domesticated in the Fertile Crescent, almost ten thousand years ago. It has survived to this day in mountainous regions of Morocco, Spain, and Turkey, and it is likely the most common ancient wheat still cultivated in parts of Italy, especially in Tuscany. In Ethiopia, emmer also still plays a significant role as a traditional food. Einkorn was grown by the ancient Egyptians and was discovered in four-thousand-year-old tombs of the pharaohs. After languishing in obscurity for centuries, these ancient grains have become trendy and have seen a comeback in the United States and in Europe. Restaurant chefs cherish their nutty sweetness and delicate chew.

WHEN YOU SHOP Farro sold in the United States is typically of the emmer variety and often semi-pearled, retaining some but not all of the bran and nutrients (on packages imported from Italy, you might read semi-perlato). Thus, my recipes have been written for this type of farro: it cooks up fast, in 20 to 25 minutes, and it enables you to enjoy the grain’s alluring texture and aroma with hints of cinnamon. Once you appreciate this new grain on your plate, feel free to “upgrade” to the real deal, deliciously plump and chewy whole grain farro. Farmers have started to grow this ancient grain in the United States, and it is worth your time and effort to track it down. There are different kinds of whole grain farro available;

some cook up fast, such as farro piccolo, while others are best soaked ahead, and simmered from anything between 35 to 70 minutes. If you can’t tell from the package whether you have refined or whole grain farro in front of you, fiber content, a close look at the kernels, and some experience will help you distinguish whether you have a whole or a pearled kernel in front of you.

This tip was published in 'Ancient Grains for Moden Meals "Mediterranean Whole Grain Recipes for Barley, Farro, Kamut, Polenta, Wheat Berries, & More" by MARIA SPECK'

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