Fairy Castle Cake

Image Copyright Owned by 'LITTLE BOOKS OF DELIGHT'

Preparation time 25 minutes plus 1 hour for decoration

Ingredients for The Icing:
• 100g (4oz) plain chocolate
• 225g (8oz) unsalted butter
• 350g (12oz) icing sugar
• 2 egg yolks

Ingredients for Decoration:
• 1x25cm (10in.) cake board
• 5 flat sweets
• 1 tube sugar-coated chocolate beans
• 3 small silver or gold doyleys
• Any bought decoration, such as candles, bumble bees, butterflies, or a fairy

Preparation:
1. Collect 3 empty food tins to bake the turrets in, one 450g (1lb) size; one 225g (8oz) size; and one 150g (5oz) size. Wash them and remove the labels. Use a 20cm (8in.) round cake tin for the castle base. Grease all the tins and line the bases with greased greaseproof paper. Set the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas Mark 5.

2. Half fill the food tins with the cake mixture and use the rest to fill the large tin. Bake the small cakes for 20-30 minutes and the large one for approx. 1 hour until well risen and firm when presses with the fingertips. Cool on a wire rack.

3. To make the icing; break the chocolate into pieces and melt in a bowl set over a pan of simmering water. Allow to cool but not set. soften the butter, then beat in the icing sugar, egg yolks and cooled chocolate. Beat until light and fluffy.

4. To assemble the cake: split the large cake in half and sandwich together with some of the icing. Set the cake on the board and ice the top and sides.

5. Carefully coat each turret with icing, inserting a fork into the base so that the cake can held with one hand while spreading the icing with the other. Set each turret on top of the cake, as shown in the photograph.

6. Push the sweets into the icing for windows and arrange the chocolate beans around the base, like crazy paving. Make a cut in each doyley from the outside to the center, roll them into cones to form roofs for the turrets and secure.

This recipe was published in 'StMichael, LITTLE BOOKS OF DELIGHT, Chocolate Cakes, POLLY TYRER - p52'

Rice Chocolate and Ginger Christmas Log

Image Copyright Owned by 'LITTLE BOOKS OF DELIGHT'

Preparation time 20 Minutes plus 30 Minutes decoration

Ingredients:
• 225g (8oz) plain chocolate
• 1tsp strong instant coffee
• 3tbsp water
• 5 eggs, separated
• 125g(5oz) caster sugar

Ingredients for the Filling:
• 2 heaped tbsp ginger marmalade
• 4tbsp advocaat liqueur (optional)
• 300ml (¹/³) double cream, whipped

Ingredients for Decoration:
• 1tbsp icing sugar
• Christmas decorations

Preparation:
1. Line a large roasting tin with greaseproof paper. Brush it lightly with oil and dust with flour and caster sugar. Set the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas Mark 6.

2. Put the chocolate, coffee and water into a heavy-based pan and melt slowly over a low heat.

3. Beat the egg yolks and sugar together until pale and mousse-like. Whisk the egg whites until stiff but not dry.

4. Stir he melted chocolate into the egg yolks. Mix a spoonful of the beaten egg whites into the mixture, then carefully fold in the remaining whites.

5. Spread the mixture evenly into the prepared tin and bake for 12 minutes until the top is dry and firm to touch. Cover immediately with a damp tea towel and leave to cool, preferably overnight.

6. To make the filling: fold the ginger marmalade and advocaat into the whipped cream.

7. To assemble the log: lay a sheet of greaseproof paper on the work surface. Turn the chocolate cake on to the paper and peel off the lining. Spread with the ginger filling and roll up like a Swiss roll, using the greaseproof paper to help you. Just before serving, dust with icing sugar and add the Christmas decorations.

If preferred, the Christmas log may be filled with plain whipped cream or whipped cream flavored with coffee essence.

This recipe was published in 'StMichael, LITTLE BOOKS OF DELIGHT, Chocolate Cakes, POLLY TYRER - p50'

Roast Turkey with Bourbon Gravy

Some families think of turkey strictly as a Thanksgiving feast, but others wouldn’t dream of having a Christmas meal without the bird making a return appearance. Turkey is a big bird, and a big subject. I have roasted hundreds of turkeys in just about every way possible. But this is my tried and - true method that has given me my reputation as Mr. Turkey. For an in-depth discussion, pick up Thanksgiving 101. In the meantime, here are the most important things to remember:

• There is no flavor difference between a tom and a hen, only size. Toms weigh about 15 pounds and above and hens average between 8 and 15 pounds. Choose your turkey size by how many people you want to serve, figuring about 1 pound per person, which allows for seconds and leftovers. Toms are bred to have large breasts, so you will get more white meat for your money with a big bird.

• I prefer the flavor and moistness of a fresh turkey. If you must use a frozen turkey, defrost it properly in the refrigerator, never at room temperature. Allow a full 24 hours in the refrigerator to defrost each 5 pounds of turkey. A 25-pound bird will take a full 5 days to defrost. If you are a novice cook, buy a selfbasting bird, which is injected with broth and fats to help keep the bird moist. Self-basting birds don’t have a true turkey flavor, but they are practically failproof. But I guarantee that once you learn how to roast a beautiful, fresh, all-natural turkey, there is no turning back. Organic and free-range birds are excellent, but the added cost depends on your guests. Will they really appreciate the difference? My guests do.

• Invest in a few essential tools that you will use time and again to roast your holiday birds (and roasts). A high-quality roasting pan will make the best, beautifully browned gravy drippings, and, unlike those cheap disposable aluminum foil pans, you won’t have to worry about the pan buckling under the weight of a heavy bird. My favorite pan is nonstick and measures 18 × 14 × 3 inches. Buy a roasting rack to fit the pan so the turkey doesn’t stew in its own juices. Using a meat thermometer, preferably a digital probe model, is the best way to tell when the bird is cooked. Don’t trust pop-up thermometers, as they often get glued shut from the turkey juices. A bulb baster will help distribute the cooking juices over the bird. And don’t forget an oven thermometer—many oven thermostats are inaccurate. A flat whisk (buy a hard plastic one for a nonstick pan) will help you get into the corners of the pan to whisk the flour and butter into the drippings for the gravy.

• You will never be able to fit all of the stuffing into the bird, so plan on baking the leftover stuffing on the side. Fill the bird loosely with the stuffing, as it will expand during cooking.

• The trick with roast turkey is to have the white meat remain moist and succulent while the dark meat is thoroughly cooked and at its peak of flavor. White meat is cooked at 170°F, and after that point it begins to dry out. Unfortunately, dark meat needs to be cooked to 180°F in order for it to be tasty. Many cookbooks and cooking magazines instruct the cook to roast the bird to 170°F, or even less, which does give moist white meat but undercooked, red dark meat. It’s not unhealthy to eat the dark meat—I just don’t like the soft texture and underroasted flavor, and neither does anyone else I know. I correct the problem by wrapping—not tenting—the breast area with aluminum foil. This slows down the cooking in this crucial area. Baste under the foil (basting promotes a crisp, brown skin) whenever you like—every 45 minutes or so is plenty. During the last hour of roasting, remove the foil and allow the skin to brown.

• To make any amount of gravy, follow the recipe below, allowing 1½ tablespoons each of turkey fat and flour for every cup of stock and degreased turkey drippings.

Carving Up:
Here are step-by-step instructions for carving a roast turkey.

1. First, allow the bird to stand at room temperature for at least 20 minutes and up to 40 minutes before carving. This allows the uices to settle into the meat. If you carve it too soon, the juices will run out of the flesh, and you’ll have dry turkey.

2. Remove the drumsticks to make the breast easier to reach and carve. Cut off each drumstick at the knee oint. If the turkey is properly cooked (that is, at least 180°F), they will pull away without any trouble, making the joints easy to sever. Do not remove the thighs at this point, or the bird will roll around the platter while you try to carve it. Transfer the drumsticks to a platter. To allow more people to en oy the dark meat, tilt each drumstick, holding it from the foot end, and cut downward along the bone to slice the meat.

3. Hold the breast firmly with the meat fork. One side at a time, make a deep incision, cut parallel to the table down near the wing. Cut down along the side of the breast to carve it into thin slices. Every slice will stop at the parallel cut. Transfer the sliced breast to the platter. Turn the turkey around to carve the other side.

4. Pry the thighs away from the hips to reveal the ball oints, and sever at the joints. Transfer the thighs to the platter. To carve each thigh, hold the thigh with a meat fork, and carve the meat parallel to the bone.

5. Pry the wings away from the shoulder joints and sever at the joints. Transfer to the platter.

If you still feel nervous about carving in front of your guests, present the whole roast bird at the table in all its glory. Then, run back into the kitchen and carve the meat where no one is looking. Serve it carved on a platter, or use two platters, separating the dark and white meat. This actually works better, because the guests can serve themselves more easily. Here’s a neat trick: If you have extra turkey stock, ust before serving, pour a ladleful of the hot stock over each platter so the meat is steaming and looks especially juicy.

Carving a goose follows the same general idea, but the goose joints are very tight and will not sever as easily as the turkey, and a goose is all dark meat.

Makes about 12 servings, plus leftovers

Ingredients:
• One l8-pound fresh turkey
• Cornbread Succotash Stuffing or your favorite stuffing recipe
• 6 tablespoons (3⁄4 stick) unsalted butter, softened
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• About 8½ cups Homemade Turkey Stock
• 1⁄2 cup plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
• 3 tablespoons bourbon

Preparation:
1. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Rinse the turkey well with cold water and pat dry. Remove the fat from the tail area and reserve it. (If there isn’t any fat, don’t worry.) Turn the turkey on its breast. Loosely fill the neck cavity with the stuffing. Pin the neck skin to the back skin with a thin wooden or metal skewer. Fold the wings akimbo behind the back or tie to the body with kitchen string. Loosely fill the body cavity with stuffing. Place any remaining stuffing in a lightly buttered casserole, cover, and refrigerate to bake as a side dish. Secure the drumsticks at the tail with a clip or tie with kitchen string. Place the turkey, breast side up, on a rack in a large roasting pan. Rub the turkey with the softened butter. Season with salt and pepper. Place the reserved turkey fat in the pan. Tightly cover the breast area with aluminum foil. Pour 2 cups of stock in the bottom of the pan.

2. Roast, basting about every 45 minutes with the drippings in the pan (lift up the foil to reach the breast area), until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the thigh (not touching a bone) reads 180°F to 185°F and the stuffing is at least 165°F, about 4½ hours. As the drippings in the pan evaporate, add 2 cups water. During the last hour, remove the foil to allow the skin to brown, making sure to baste a couple of times before the turkey is done to color the skin with the pan juices.

3. Transfer the turkey to a large serving platter. Let stand for 20 to 30 minutes before carving. Increase the oven temperature to 375°F. Drizzle the stuffing with 1⁄2 cup of turkey stock, cover, and bake until heated through, about 30 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, pour the drippings from the pan into a large glass bowl or gravy separator. Let stand for 5 minutes; skim off and reserve the clear yellow fat on the surface (or pour off the drippings and reserve both the drippings and fat in a separator). Add enough turkey stock to the skimmed drippings to make 6 cups total.

5. Place the roasting pan over two burners on medium heat. Add 1⁄2 cup plus 1 tablespoon of the reserved turkey fat (if necessary, add melted butter to make up any shortage). Whisk in the flour, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan, and let bubble until beige, 1 to 2 minutes. Whisk in the turkey liquid and bourbon. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes. (If the gravy seems too thick, add more stock or water.) Season with salt and pepper. Strain the gravy, if desired. Transfer to a warmed gravy boat. Carve the turkey (see “Carving Up,”), and serve the gravy and stuffing alongside.

Estimated Turkey Roasting Times:

Oven Temperature: 325°F

Add an extra 30 minutes to the roasting time to allow for variations in roasting conditions. It’s better to have a bird done ahead of time than to keep everyone waiting and hungry for the bird to finish roasting.

UNSTUFFED TURKEY:
• 8 to 12 pounds - 2¾ to 3 hours
• 12 to 14 pounds - 3 to 3¾ hours
• 14 to 18 pounds - 3¾ to 4¼ hours
• 18 to 20 pounds - 4¼ to 4½ hours
• 20 to 24 pounds - 4½ to 5 hours

STUFFED TURKEY:
• 8 to 12 pounds - 3 to 3½ hours
• 12 to 14 pounds - 3½ to 4 hours
• 14 to 18 pounds - 4 to 4¼ hours
• 18 to 20 pounds - 4¼ to 4¾ hours
• 20 to 24 pounds - 4¾ to 5¼ hours

Quick Turkey Stock: In a large saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil over medium-high heat. Add the turkey neck, chopped into 2- to 3-inch pieces, and the giblets (no liver). Cook, turning occasionally, until browned, about 8 minutes. Add 1 small chopped onion, 1 small chopped carrot, and 1 small chopped celery rib with leaves, and cook until softened, about 6 minutes. Add three 13 and 3⁄4-ounce cans reducedsodium chicken broth and 1 quart water. Bring to a simmer, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. Add 3 sprigs fresh parsley, 1⁄4 teaspoon dried thyme, 8 peppercorns, and 1 bay leaf. Simmer for 1 and 1⁄2 to 3 hours, the longer the better. Strain. Cool and skim off any clear yellow fat that rises to the surface. Makes about 8 and 1⁄2 cups.

This recipe was published in 'Christmas 101, Celebrate the Holiday Season from Christmas to New Year’s (Rick Rodgers) - p60 to p63'.

Roast Goose with Port Wine Gravy

There is a lot of romance about roast goose for Christmas, probably stemming from the Yuletide dinner scenes in British tales or from the German culinary tradition. Goose is a big bird, but firsttime cooks should know that its size is deceiving— it doesn’t yield a lot of meat. That said, the meat is dark, rich, and flavorful, reminiscent of both roast duck and well-done roast beef. In order to stretch the servings, offer lots of side dishes, like Red Cabbage with Apples and Bacon, Chestnut and Prune Stuffing, and Giant Potato and Leek Rösti.

• If possible, order a fresh goose from a specialty butcher. Frozen geese are also available and are quite good. For best results, thaw thoroughly in the refrigerator, allowing 2 to 3 days.

• Goose gives off a great amount of fat during cooking (about 3 cups!), which is a blessing in disguise. Goose fat is an excellent medium for frying and sautéing, especially in potato dishes like Giant Potato and Leek Rösti. There is plenty of visible fat to remove from the tail area and render in a saucepan. However, most of it is hidden in the skin, and it needs to be cooked out or the skin will be unappetizingly rubbery and greasy. My method uses two tricks to draw out the fat, culled from recipes for crisp-skinned Peking duck. First, leave the goose uncovered in the refrigerator for a day or two to dry and stretch the skin, which opens the pores and helps the fat run out of the skin during roasting. Second, steam the goose on a rack in a covered oval roasting pan (such as an oldfashioned turkey roaster) on top of the stove, a procedure that draws out the initial amount of fat better than roasting.

• Unlike turkey, you should be able to fit the entire batch of stuffing in the goose body cavity. Also, unlike turkey, the large opening to a stuffed goose needs to be sewn shut. Trussing needles are hard to find, even at professional restaurant supply stores. Mattress or canvas needles are easily purchased at sewing or hobby shops. They are long and sturdy, with large eyes that can thread cotton butcher’s twine. I store my “goose needle” in my kitchen gadget drawer, taped to the inside of the drawer with a large piece of masking tape so it can’t get lost.

• Make Homemade Goose Stock to flavor the stuffing and make the gravy. The bony wing tips are always removed from the goose before roasting because they have a tendency to burn. Along with the goose neck and heart (the liver would make the stock bitter so it is used in the stuffing), the wing tips are the beginning of a great stock, but a bit of chicken broth boosts the poultry flavor. If you don’t own a heavy cleaver that will cut through the strong bones, have the butcher remove the wing tips and chop them, along with the goose neck, before you bring the bird home.

• Goose should be cooked to 180°F, like a turkey, but don’t expect the tenderness of the latter. The joints of a goose, especially at the hip, are very tight, and always take some work to pry them from the body. The skin is one of the best parts of the goose, and should be served in generous portions.

Makes 6 to 8 servings

Make Ahead: The goose must be refrigerated 1 to 2 days before serving. The rendered goose
fat and stock can be made up to 2 days ahead.

Ingredients:
• One 10- to 12-pound goose, neck chopped into 2- to 3-inch pieces, and giblets reserved to make
• Homemade Goose Stock
• Chestnut and Prune Stuffing
• Salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 4 tablespoons rendered goose fat or butter
• 1⁄4 cup all-purpose flour
• 2 and 2⁄3 cups Homemade Goose Stock
• 1⁄3 cup tawny or ruby port

Preparation:
1. One to two days before roasting, rinse the goose and pat dry with paper towels. Pull out the clumps of pale yellow fat from around the tail cavity. Cut off any excess neck skin and reserve. Cut off the wings at the second joints, leaving only the last wing segment attached to the goose. Use the neck, giblets (no liver), and wing tips to make the stock, reserving the liver for the stuffing. Cover and refrigerate the fat, skin, wings, neck, wing tips, and liver until ready to use.

2. Place the goose on a rack in a roasting pan. Refrigerate at least overnight and up to 48 hours. The skin will dry out, but that’s what you want.

3. Meanwhile, render the goose fat: Coarsely chop the goose fat and cut the skin into thin strips. Place in a medium saucepan and add 1⁄4 cup warm water. Cook with the lid ajar over medium-low heat until the fat has rendered into a golden liquid and the skin strips are lightly browned, about 2 hours. Strain through a wire sieve into a bowl and let cool to room temperature. (You can discard the cracklings in the sieve or reserve them to serve sprinkled on a green salad.) Store the fat in small containers (1-cup deli containers work well), as you will most likely be using it in small amounts. It will make about 2 cups. (The rendered fat can be stored, covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 weeks or frozen for up to 3 months.)

4. When ready to roast the goose, fill the body cavity with the stuffing. Using a trussing needle and kitchen twine, sew up the opening. Using the tip of the needle, prick the goose skin all over (without reaching into the meat), especially in the thigh area.

5. Place the goose on a rack in an oval roasting pan with a lid. Add 2 cups of water to the pan and bring to a boil on top of the stove over high heat. Cover tightly and reduce the heat to low. Steam the duck for 1 hour. Remove the goose on the rack from the pan and pour out the liquid in the pan. Return the goose and the rack to the pan and season the goose with 1 teaspoon salt and 1⁄4 teaspoon pepper.

6. Place a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Roast the goose, uncovered, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the thigh (without touching a bone) reads 180°F, about 1½ hours. During the last 15 minutes of roasting, increase the oven temperature to 400°F to crisp the skin. As the goose roasts and rendered fat accumulates in the pan, use a bulb baster to remove and add it to the rendered fat from step 3, if desired, or discard. Transfer the goose to a serving platter and let stand for 20 to 30 minutes before carving.

7. To make the gravy, pour all of the rendered fat out of the pan into the reserved fat. Set the roasting pan over two burners on medium-low heat. Add 1⁄4 cup of the rendered goose fat to the pan. Sprinkle the flour into the pan, whisking constantly. Let the mixture bubble until it turns beige, about 1 minute. Whisk in the stock and port, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. (Save the remaining stock for another use. It is an excellent substitute for chicken stock.) Simmer for about 5 minutes, whisking occasionally. Season the gravy with salt and pepper. If desired, strain the gravy. Transfer to a warmed sauceboat.

8. Carve the goose, and serve with a spoonful of the stuffing and a portion of the crisp skin. Pass the gravy on the side.

This recipe was published in 'Christmas 101, Celebrate the Holiday Season from Christmas to New Year’s (Rick Rodgers) - p58 and p59'.

Two-Way Duck with Pecan-Orange Wild Rice and Sautéed Spinach

Roast duck is a popular dish at my house, but a single duck is really just enough for two people. When I want to serve duck to friends, fitting two birds into my oven just doesn’t work. I devised this solution, based on the way that many restaurants serve their duck: Cut the duck into parts, then cook each one so they are at their best. Roast the leg quarters until crisp, cook the boneless duck breast in a skillet until mediumrare, turn the bony carcass and giblets into a luscious classic demi-glace sauce, and render the excess skin and fat. Each one of these steps is very easy, so please do not be intimidated by the long recipe. I’ve also included suggested side dishes here, because they serve only four people, and the other recipes in the book are for larger groups.

• Like goose, duck gives off a lot of fat. In France, where the word cholesterol is rarely uttered, rendered duck and goose fat are prized cooking ingredients. To play along with the American phobia for animal fats, you could certainly substitute butter or vegetable oil for the rendered fat in these recipes, but try the rendered fat, thinking of it as a special treat.

• Pecan-Orange Wild Rice is the perfect side dish to duck. Wild rice varies greatly from brand to brand and it is hard to gauge its cooking time and rate of liquid absorption. Hand-harvested wild rice is expensive, but it has an excellent, robust flavor and firm texture. It takes somewhat longer to cook than the less expensive, machine-harvested variety. If you have excess liquid in the pot when the rice is tender, simply drain it off. On the other hand, if the rice absorbs the liquid before it is done, add more stock (or water) as needed. Because of these variables, it may be best to make the rice ahead of serving and reheat it in a skillet or the microwave.

Makes 4 servings

Make Ahead: You can cut up the ducks, make the stock and sauce, and render the fat the day before serving. The duck quarters can be steamed up to 1½ hours before roasting.

Ingredients:
• Two 5½- to 6-pound Long Island (Peking) ducks
• 1⁄2 teaspoon salt
• 1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1⁄2 teaspoon dried thyme
• 2 quarts Homemade Duck Stock (page 46), made with reserved wings, giblets, necks, and carcass bones
• Pecan-Orange Wild Rice (recipe follows)
• Sautéed Spinach (recipe follows)

Preparation:
1. Prepare the ducks and stock the day before serving. Using a large, heavy knife, cut off the wings and reserve. Reserve the giblets (but not the livers, which you can save for another use or discard). Chop the necks and wings into 2- to 3-inch pieces. Set the wings, giblets, and necks aside for the stock. Pull out the clumps of fat inside the duck body cavity on either side of the tail, cover, and refrigerate.

2. Using a sharp, thin knife, cut off the leg quarters (thigh and drumstick together) at the thigh joints. Trim off excess skin from the perimeters of the duck pieces and reserve the skin pieces.

3. Make an incision down each side of the breastbone. With the knife tip pointing toward the rib bones, cut away the breast meat (with the skin still attached), pulling the meat away from the ribs as you cut. Cut off the breast section at the wing joint and the bottom of the rib cage. Pull the skin off the duck breasts and reserve. You will have 4 boneless breasts and 4 leg quarters. Season the duck with the salt, pepper, and thyme. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

4. To make the stock, using a heavy cleaver, chop the duck carcasses into manageable pieces to fit your stockpot, and use with the neck, wings, and giblets to make the duck stock.

5. To render the duck fat, cut the reserved skin into thin strips and coarsely chop the reserved fat from the body cavity. Render according to the instructions in Roast Goose with Port Wine Gravy (page 58).

6. To make the sauce, place the duck stock in a large pot. Bring to a boil over high heat. Boil until the stock is reduced to about 1 quart, 1 to 1½ hours. Transfer to a medium saucepan and boil until dark brown and thick enough to coat a wooden spoon (about 11 ⁄2 cups), about 30 minutes. (The sauce can be prepared up to 1 day ahead, cooled, covered, and refrigerated. Reheat before serving.)

7. Fit a large pot with a collapsible aluminum steamer rack and fill the pot with enough water to almost reach the rack. Add the duck leg quarters and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover tightly and reduce the heat to medium-low. Steam the duck leg quarters for 45 minutes. Remove the duck from the pot and transfer to a roasting pan. (The duck quarters can be prepared up to this point 1½ hours before roasting; set aside at room temperature.)

8. Position a rack in the top third of the oven and preheat to 450°F. Roast the steamed duck, turning occasionally, until crisp and golden brown, 30 to 40 minutes. Remove the duck breasts from the refrigerator and let stand at room temperature while the duck legs are roasting.

9. About 15 minutes before serving, heat 2 tablespoons of the rendered duck fat in a very large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the duck breasts and cook, turning once, until lightly browned and medium-rare, 6 to 8 minutes. (You can use a small, sharp knife to make an incision in the thickest part of the breast to check for doneness. Or press the duck with your finger—it should feel somewhat soft in the center. The firmer the meat feels, the more well-done it is.) Transfer the duck to a carving board and loosely cover with aluminum foil. Let stand for about 3 minutes for the juices to settle.

10. To serve, using a sharp carving knife, slice each breast into thin diagonal slices. Slip the knife under each breast and transfer to a dinner plate, fanning out the slices slightly. (If you wish, serve a whole breast, unsliced, on each plate.) Place a duck quarter on each plate. Divide the wild rice and spinach among the plates. Spoon some of the duck sauce around the duck, and serve immediately.

Pecan-Orange Wild Rice: In a medium saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons rendered duck fat over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons finely chopped shallots and cook until softened, about 1 minute. Stir in 1 cup (6 ounces) rinsed and drained wild rice. Add 2 and 2⁄3 cups Homemade Duck Stock (page 46) or canned reducedsodium chicken broth, 1⁄3 cup fresh orange juice, the grated zest of 1⁄2 large orange, 3⁄4 teaspoon salt, and 1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover tightly. Cook until the rice is tender and puffed, about 1 hour. Be flexible with the cooking time, as it will vary with the type of rice. Stir in 1⁄2 cup finely chopped pecans. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes. If necessary, drain any excess liquid from the wild rice before serving hot. (The rice can be made up to 2 hours ahead. If necessary, reheat in a covered large skillet over low heat, stirring often. Or place in a covered, microwave-safe bowl, and microwave on Medium-High or 70 percent power, stirring occasionally, until heated through, about 5 minutes.)

Sautéed Spinach: Fill a sink or very large bowl with cold water. Wash 2 pounds fresh spinach, tough stems removed. Shake the spinach to remove excess water, but do not dry completely. (The spinach can be cleaned up to 2 hours before cooking, stored at room temperature.) In a large saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons unsalted butter over medium-high heat. Add 1 small finely chopped garlic clove and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. In batches, stir in the spinach, waiting for the first batch to wilt before adding another. Cook until the spinach is tender, about 5 minutes. Season with 1 ⁄2 teaspoon salt and 1 ⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. (The spinach can be made up to 1 hour ahead. Reheat over low heat, stirring often.) Serve hot, using a slotted spoon to leave excess liquid in the pot.

This recipe was published in 'Christmas 101, Celebrate the Holiday Season from Christmas to New Year’s (Rick Rodgers) - p55 to p57'.

Chicken Cassoulet

Cassoulet, the extravagant French version of pork and beans, is probably one of the most filling dishes on the planet, which makes it a good choice for an open house entree. The classic recipe can take days to create. It usually includes confit (duck or goose cooked and aged in fat), an essential ingredient if you live in the southwest of France . . . and I don’t! Even my most discriminating foodie friends agree that my easy recipe is just as good as the time-consuming original. If you have guests who don’t eat red meat, make the cassoulet with turkey sausage, and they can dig in.

• The cassoulet looks especially good when baked and served from a large 7- to 8-quart Dutch oven, preferably made of enameled cast iron. I have one left from my catering days, and it is one of my most used cooking utensils. If you don’t own one, the bean mixture can be made in a standard Dutch oven, then divided between two 3½-quart casseroles. When ready to bake, stir 1 cup chicken broth or water into each casserole, and add the bread crumb topping.

Makes 12 to 16 servings

Make Ahead: The cassoulet can be made up to 1 day ahead (without the bread crumb topping).

Ingredients:
• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 3 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1-inch cubes (see Note)
• 1 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1 teaspoon dried rosemary
• 1 teaspoon dried sage
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano
• 3⁄4 teaspoon salt
• 1⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup dry vermouth or white wine
• One 28-ounce can chopped tomatoes in juice, undrained
• 2 cups Homemade White Chicken Stock or use canned reduced-sodium chicken broth
• 1 bay leaf
• 1½ pounds pork or turkey sweet Italian sausage, casings removed
• 2 medium onions, chopped
• 1 large red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, chopped
• Six 15- to 19-ounce cans cannellini (white kidney) beans, rinsed and drained
• 1⁄2 cup dried bread crumbs
• 1⁄4 cup chopped fresh parsley

Preparation:
1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F.

2. In a very large (7- to 8-quart) Dutch oven, preferably enameled cast iron, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium-high heat. In batches without crowding, cook the chicken thighs, turning occasionally, until browned lightly on all sides, about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the browned chicken to a platter. Return the browned chicken to the Dutch oven. Season with the thyme, rosemary, sage, oregano, salt, and pepper, and mix well. Add the vermouth and bring to a boil, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Add the tomatoes with their juices, the stock, and the bay leaf. Bring to a simmer.

3. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil over medium heat. Add the sausage and cook, breaking it up into bite-size pieces with the side of a large spoon until it loses its pink color, about 8 minutes. Add the onions, red pepper, and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are softened, about 6 minutes. Stir into the chicken mixture. Stir in the beans. (If preparing the cassoulet to this point ahead, cool, cover, and refrigerate. Stir 1 additional cup of chicken stock or water into the cassoulet before proceeding.)

4. In a small bowl, mix together the bread crumbs and parsley. Sprinkle over the top of the cassoulet. Bake for 30 minutes. Using a large spoon, gently press the thin crust that has formed on the cassoulet just under the surface. Continue baking until the cassoulet is simmering and a second thin crust has formed, about 30 minutes. Let stand for 10 minutes. Serve hot.

Note: Instead of paying a premium for boneless, skinless chicken thighs, purchase 5 pounds chicken thighs with the skin and bones, and remove the skin and bones yourself. It’s a quick and easy procedure.

This recipe was published in 'Christmas 101, Celebrate the Holiday Season from Christmas to New Year’s (Rick Rodgers) - p54 and p55'.

Baked Smoked Ham with Pineapple and Seeded Mustard Glaze

A sweet and tangy glazed smoked ham is another versatile holiday entree, equally at home on the dinner or buffet table. (Not to mention the bonus of leftover ham for post-party sandwiches and casseroles.) This recipe features the familiar flavors of glazed ham without resorting to the usual route of brown sugar, pineapple slices, and maraschino cherries. If you can’t find pineapple preserves, substitute apricot preserves.

• In my opinion, a canned ham can’t hold a candle to bone-in smoked ham. I have tried to appreciate spiral-cut hams, but the ones I have tried were too salty.

• This recipe uses an average-size 8-pound ham, but larger or smaller hams can be used to accommodate the amount of people you want to serve (and the leftovers you want to have!). Allow 15 minutes per pound at 325°F, glazing the ham during the last hour of baking, and make more or less glaze as needed.

• Sure, baked ham is delicious, but it also looks terrific on a buffet because it stands tall on the platter, and height adds visual interest to the display. I found a ham holder at a garage sale, a metal ring with prongs attached to a wooden handle that lifts the whole ham up and holds it securely for slicing. If you find one at a kitchenware or restaurant supply store (or garage sale or secondhand shop), grab it. More common are cone-shaped ham holders, made from metal tubing, which hold the ham straight up. Don’t confuse either of these with a prosciutto holder.

• Common food safety requires that meat stand no longer than 2 hours at room temperature before serving. This isn’t always easy to do. If necessary, serve sliced ham and replenish the platter as needed.

Makes 16 to 24 servings

Ingredients:
• One 8-pound bone-in smoked ham, preferably the shank end
• 1 cup pineapple preserves
• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 1½ teaspoons yellow mustard seeds

Preparation:
1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 325°F. Line a roasting pan with aluminum foil.

2. Using a sharp knife, trim off all of the skin except for a 1- to 2-inch band around the shank. Trim off all of the fat, leaving a less than 1 ⁄4-inch-thick layer.

3. In a small bowl, whisk together the preserves, mustard, and mustard seeds and set aside.

4. Place the ham on a roasting rack in the pan. Bake until a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the ham (without touching a bone) registers 140°F, about 2 hours (allow 15 minutes per pound). During the last hour of roasting, spread with half of the glaze. After 30 minutes, spread with the remaining glaze.

5. Transfer the ham to a carving board or platter. Let stand for 15 to 30 minutes before carving.

This recipe was published in 'Christmas 101, Celebrate the Holiday Season from Christmas to New Year’s (Rick Rodgers) - p53 and p54'.

Marinated Beef Tenderloin

Marinated, roasted beef tenderloin is one of the most versatile dishes in a cook’s repertoire. Served hot, it can be the main course of a holiday sit-down dinner. Cooled, then thinly sliced, it is often the centerpiece of an open-house buffet. The citrus–red wine–balsamic vinegar marinade used here is tasty but very strong—don’t marinate the beef for too long, or the acids in the marinade could give the meat a mushy texture.

• This recipe assumes that you will be buying a whole, untrimmed beef tenderloin, which is available in vacuum-packed packages at large supermarkets and wholesale clubs. Even though you will trim the beef yourself, there still will be a fair amount of waste—a whole tenderolin weighing 6 pounds trims down to about 3½ pounds, plus about 3⁄4 pound meat culled from the trimmings. Some cooks leave the disproportionately large clod of meat attached to the thinner main muscle, but I prefer to trim the clod off and save it for another meal (it’s great chunked into kebabs or cut into strips for a stir-fry). You can also buy a 3½- to 4-pound trimmed tenderloin, if you prefer.

Makes 8 to 12 main-course servings, or 16 to 20 buffet servings

Make Ahead: The beef should marinate for 2 to 4 hours before roasting.

One 6-pound beef tenderloin, untrimmed

Ingredients:
• 1 cup hearty red wine, such as Zinfandel
• Grated zest and juice of 1 large orange
• 1⁄3 cup soy sauce
• 1⁄3 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 1⁄4 cup balsamic vinegar
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed under a knife
• 1½ teaspoons dried rosemary
• 1½ teaspoons dried thyme
• 1⁄2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
• 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
• 1⁄2 teaspoon salt
• 1⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
• 1⁄2 teaspoon salt
• 1⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Preparation (MARINADE):
1. Drain the beef, rinse under cold running water, and pat dry with paper towels. (Do not be concerned about any odor—it will dissipate in a minute or so.) Using a sharp, thin-bladed knife, trim away any fat, including the large lump at the wide end, and discard. Pull and cut away the long, thin “chain” muscle that runs the length of the tenderloin. (If you wish, trim away the fat from the chain and reserve the meat for another use.) Following the natural muscle separation, cut away the large clod of meat at the wide end and reserve for another use. At one end of the meat, make an incision under the silver sinews covering the meat. Slip the knife under the sinew, and pull and trim it away. Work lengthwise down the tenderloin until it is completely free of sinew and fat.

2. Fold the thin ends of the tenderloin underneath so the tenderloin is the same thickness throughout its length, and tie with kitchen string. Tie the roast crosswise at 2- to 3-inch intervals.

3. To make the marinade, whisk together all of the ingredients in a large bowl to combine. Place the tenderloin in a jumbo-size self-sealing plastic bag, and pour in the marinade. Close the bag and refrigerate the tenderloin, turning it occasionally, for at least to 2 hours and up to 4 hours. Remove the tenderloin from the marinade and discard the marinade.

4. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 425°F. Rub the tenderloin with the oil and season with the salt and pepper. Place in a large roasting pan (no need to use a roasting rack). Roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the roast reads 125°F for medium-rare meat (the internal temperature of the meat will continue to rise about 5°F outside of the oven).

5. If serving hot, let stand for 10 to 15 minutes before carving. If serving at a buffet, cool for at least 30 minutes, then carve and serve within 2 hours. Or cool completely, wrap tightly in foil, and refrigerate for up to 2 days before carving. Serve at room temperature.

Beefing Up
The perfect roast beef is tender, juicy, and full of meaty flavor. The USDA grades meat according to tenderness. Two main factors are the age of the steer (the older the beef, the tougher, but more flavorful, the meat), and the amount of fat marbled through its flesh (as this inner marbling moistens the meat as it cooks). The most common grades are Prime, Choice, and Standard. Beef has the most grades. Lamb and veal have fewer grades, and only the highest grades make it to market. Pork is so consistent that only one grade is sold directly to consumers.

Only about 2 percent of all beef is graded Prime. It is the very best meat you can buy and accordingly expensive. One of the reasons why it’s so pricey is that it has gone through a special dry-aging process. All beef is aged after slaughter so the enzymes can break down and tenderize the flesh. Most beef is wet-aged in its juices in sealed plastic bags (like the ones for sale at wholesale clubs). But dry-aged beef is allowed to stand uncovered in special refrigerators for 3 weeks or more. This special aging process evaporates excess moisture from the meat. As the exposed surface must be trimmed away, dry-aged meat makes for a good amount of waste, so the price of the meat goes up.

By far, most of the meat in supermarkets is wet-aged and graded Choice. It’s very good, but it lacks the depth of flavor that prime meat provides. If you roasted a Choice rib roast without any special treatment, it would be ust fine but not great. But there is a way to simulate dry-aging for Choice meat at home, if you are willing to make space in your refrigerator for 5 days.

I have been doing this “quick” dry-aging method ever since I saw it outlined in Jane Frieman’s Dinner Parties. Before you start, make sure your refrigerator is 40°F or below (use a refrigerator thermometer—don’t just guess). Be aware that between the moisture evaporation and post-aging trimming, you will lose about 20 percent of the roast’s purchased weight. The last time I aged a rib roast like this, I began with a 10-pound roast that cost $90. After aging and trimming, the roast weighed 8 pounds, so I “lost” $18 worth of meat. For my money, the improved flavor was worth every penny.

Purchase the roast 5 days before you plan to serve it. Unwrap the roast and place it on a wire rack positioned on a jelly-roll pan. Refrigerate for 5 days. The outside surface of the meat will dry out, but don’t worry. When you are ready to roast the meat, use a sharp, thin-bladed knife to trim away all of the dried surfaces. The meat is ready to roast.

This method only works with very large pieces of beef or lamb, like a rib roast or leg of lamb. Don’t try it with steaks or chops.

This recipe was published in 'Christmas 101, Celebrate the Holiday Season from Christmas to New Year’s (Rick Rodgers) - p51 to p53'.

Homemade Brown Stock 101

Nothing beats homemade stock. Just like most home cooks, I use canned broth (a good reduced-sodium brand, but never bouillon cubes, which are too salty and artificial tasting to me) for the majority of my cooking, but for a special holiday meal, I bring out the stockpot. Stock takes very little actual work and can be made well ahead of time and frozen. The only problem is that no matter how much you make and store, it always seems to disappear too quickly. This basic recipe can be altered to make different stocks by using different meaty bones.

• This basic recipe makes rich brown stock from roasted bones—the preferred stock for meat sauces and gravies. If you need stock for soups and white sauces, make Homemade White Chicken Stock (page 46), as its color is more neutral and the finished dish will look and taste lighter.

• What’s the difference between a stock and a broth? A stock is generally made from bones, but a broth is the cooking liquid of braised meat or poultry. The biggest distinction, however, comes from the use of salt. Stock is unsalted, used in a recipe as an ingredient, and then the final dish is seasoned. Broth is usually seasoned and may be enjoyed on its own, like a soup.

• Never let stock come to a rolling boil, or it will become cloudy and have a less refined flavor. Cook the stock uncovered.

• Add the herbs to the stock after you’ve skimmed it. If you add them at the beginning, they will rise to the surface and be skimmed off with the foam. By the way, the foam isn’t unwholesome—it’s just the coagulating proteins from the bones. It is removed to make the stock clearer.

• The longer a stock simmers, the better, up to 12 hours. Replace the water as needed as it evaporates. While I trust my stove to simmer the stock overnight, some of my students are shocked at the idea. A great alternative is to make the stock in a 5½-quart slow cooker. Transfer the browned bones and cooked vegetable mixture to the crockery insert, add the herbs, and pour in enough cold water to cover well. Cover and cook on Low for 12 hours. This makes a clear, delicious stock. As a slow cooker holds less liquid than a stockpot, the stock will be very full-flavored. You may choose to use slightly fewer bones and vegetables (especially if you make the stock in a smaller 3½-quart pot), or dilute the finished stock with water, if you wish.

• If time is a factor, just simmer the stock for an hour or two—it still will be better than using water or canned broth. You may want to add a can of broth to boost the flavor, though. (It’s cheating, but I won’t tell.) Or make a pot well ahead of the holidays and freeze it.

• Make sure the stock is cooled before refrigerating or freezing. To speed the cooling, place the stockpot in a sink filled with ice water, adding ice as necessary to keep it as cold as possible. Stir occasionally until the stock is cool.

• Don’t add salt to your stock. Stock is often reduced in recipes, so the final dish could end up too salty.

Makes about 2 ½ quarts
Make Ahead: The stock can be made up to 3 days ahead; it can also be frozen for up to 3 months.

Ingredients:
• 3 pounds chicken wings, chopped into 2- to 3-inch pieces
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 1 medium carrot, chopped
• 1 medium celery rib, with leaves, chopped
• 6 sprigs fresh parsley
• ½ teaspoon dried thyme
• ¼ teaspoon whole black peppercorns
• 1 dried bay leaf

Preparation:
1. Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 450°F. Spread the chicken wings in a large roasting pan. Roast, turning occasionally, until golden brown, about 45 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a large pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion, carrot, and celery to the pot and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 6 minutes.

3. Transfer the wings to the pot. Pour off all the fat from the pan. Place the pan over two burners on high heat. Add 1 cup water, scraping up the browned bits in the pan with a wooden spoon. Pour into the pot. Add enough cold water to cover the wings by 2 inches. Bring to a boil, skimming off the foam that rises to the surface. Add the parsley, thyme, peppercorns, and bay leaf. Reduce the heat to low. Cook at a bare simmer for at least 2 and up to 12 hours. Add more water to the pot as needed to keep the bones covered.

4. Strain the stock through a colander into a large bowl. Let stand for 5 minutes and skim off the clear yellow fat that rises to the surface. Cool the stock completely before refrigerating or freezing. (If making chicken stock ahead, cool completely, cover, and refrigerate. It can also be frozen in airtight containers for up to 3 months.)

Homemade Turkey Stock:
Substitute 3 pounds turkey wings for the chicken wings. Using a heavy cleaver, chop the wings into 2- to 3-inch pieces (you may want to ask the butcher to do this, as turkey bones are often too heavy to chop at home). Add the turkey neck (chopped into 2- to 3- inch pieces), heart, and gizzard to the pot, but don’t use the liver, as it would give the stock a bitter flavor.

Homemade Duck Stock:
Substitute the carcasses, giblets (no liver), wing tips, and necks (chopped into 2- to 3-inch pieces) of 2 ducks for the chicken wings.

Homemade Goose Stock:
You won’t have enough bones from 1 goose to make a full flavored stock, so use canned chicken broth to boost the flavor. Substitute the goose wing tips and neck (chopped into 1- to 2-inch pieces) and giblets (no liver) for the chicken wings. Substitute two 13¾-ounce cans reduced-sodium chicken broth for 3½ cups of water.

Homemade Beef Stock:
Substitute 2 pounds beef bones and 1 pound beef shin for the chicken wings.

Homemade White Chicken Stock:
Make the stock as directed, but do not roast the wings. Add the raw wings to the pot after the vegetables have softened.

This recipe was published in 'Christmas 101, Celebrate the Holiday Season from Christmas to New Year’s (Rick Rodgers) - p45 To p46'.

Shrimp, Zucchini, and Red Pepper Bisque

This creamy bisque is an outstanding first course. The chunky, colorful sautéed shrimp-andvegetable mixture not only provides the bulk of the flavor, it acts as a garnish, too. To avoid lastminute work, have all the sauté ingredients ready, then quickly cook them just before serving. The easiest serving procedure would be to stir the cooked shrimp and vegetables into the bisque. But I much prefer to bring a tureen of the soup to the table along with a bowl of the shrimp and vegetables and serve it from the head of the table, spooning the sautéed mixture into each bowl of soup—the splash of green, red, and pink in the creamy soup looks terrific.

Makes 8 servings

Make Ahead: The bisque can be made up to the point before adding the half-and-half up to 1 day ahead.

Ingredients:
• 1 pound medium shrimp with shells
• 7 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 small onion, chopped
• 1 small celery rib with leaves, chopped
• 2 cups bottled clam juice
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 2 sprigs fresh parsley
• 1⁄8 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1⁄8 teaspoon black peppercorns
• ¼ cup all-purpose flour
• 2 tablespoons Madeira or dry sherry
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• 2 cups half-and-half
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• ¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
• 1 medium zucchini, cut into ¼-inch dice
• 1 medium red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch dice

Preparation:
1. Peel and devein the shrimp, reserving the shells. Coarsely chop the shrimp; cover and refrigerate.

2. In a medium saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon of the butter over medium heat. Add the onion and celery. Cover and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the shrimp shells, 3 cups cold water, the clam juice, wine, parsley, thyme, and peppercorns. Raise the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain and reserve the stock (you should have 5 cups; add water as needed).

3. In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, melt 4 tablespoons of the butter over low heat. Whisk in the flour and let bubble, without browning, for 1 minute. Whisk in the sherry and tomato paste, then the reserved shrimp stock. Raise the heat to medium and bring to a simmer. Simmer until lightly thickened, about 3 minutes. (The bisque can be made to this point up to 1 day ahead, cooled, covered, and refrigerated. Reheat gently before proceeding.) Add the half-and-half and cook until very hot but not simmering. Season with 1⁄8 teaspoon of the salt and 1⁄8 teaspoon of the pepper.

4. In a large skillet, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter over medium-high heat. Add the zucchini and red pepper and sauté until just tender, about 7 minutes. Add the shrimp and cook until pink and firm, about 3 minutes. Season with the remaining 1⁄8 teaspoon salt and 1⁄8 teaspoon pepper. Transfer to a warmed bowl.

5. Pour the bisque into a warmed soup tureen. To serve, ladle the bisque into soup bowls, topping each serving with a spoonful of the shrimp and vegetable mixture.

This recipe was published in 'Christmas 101, Celebrate the Holiday Season from Christmas to New Year’s (Rick Rodgers) - p44'.

Parsnip and Leek Soup with Bacon

The sweet earthy flavors of parsnips and leeks create a smooth and elegant soup that will have your guests trying to guess the ingredients. A crisp topping of crumbled bacon is the perfect garnish.

Makes 8 servings
Make Ahead: The soup can be made up to 1 day ahead.

Ingredients:
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 3 large leeks, chopped, white and pale green parts only (1½ cups)
• 1 pound parsnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
• 2 pounds baking potatoes, such as russet or Burbank, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
• 5 cups Homemade White Chicken Stock or canned reduced-sodium chicken broth
• ¾ teaspoon salt
• ¼ teaspoon freshly ground white or black pepper
• 4 slices bacon

Preparation:
1. In a large pot, heat the butter over medium heat. Add the leeks and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the parsnips and potatoes. Stir in the stock and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and cover. Cook until the vegetables are tender, about 25 minutes.

2. In batches, purée the soup in a blender or food processor. Return to the pot and add the salt and pepper. (If preparing the soup ahead, cool, cover, and refrigerate. Reheat over very low heat, stirring often. If the soup seems too thick, thin it with additional stock.)

3. Meanwhile, in a medium skillet over medium-high heat, cook the bacon, turning once, until crisp and browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain and cool. Crumble the bacon and set aside.

4. To serve, ladle the soup into soup bowls and top with the crumbled bacon. Serve hot.

This recipe was published in 'Christmas 101, Celebrate the Holiday Season from Christmas to New Year’s (Rick Rodgers) - p43'.

Sangria Jell-O Mold

To many Americans, a holiday dinner means a molded Jell-O salad. My good friend Beth Hensperger, author of many cookbooks, told me that she always puts wine in her Jell-O mold to give it a little sophistication. While the salad can be served as a first course, I prefer it as a side dish or on a buffet with many other offerings. With this inspiration, here is a recipe that brings this old favorite into the new millennium.

• You will need a 6-cup mold for this salad. A metal ring mold will do, but Jell-O makes a beautifully designed plastic ring mold that I am very partial to. It is available in some supermarkets during the holidays or by mail order through the Jell-O Web site, www.jell-o.com (go to the “Corner Store,” then the “Jell-O Molds” section).

• This recipe is easily halved again—fill a 9-cup mold (use three 3-ounce packages of Jell-O)—or doubled to fit a large mold. Just be sure that the gelatin mixture comes to the top of the mold; otherwise it will be difficult to unmold.

• As easy as it is to make, there are still some tips to make a good gelatin mold. First, be sure the gelatin is completely dissolved, which takes 2 minutes of constant stirring. Don’t cheat, or the mold won’t set properly. Second, the gelatin must be partially set in order to support the weight of the added fruit or the chunks will sink to the bottom of the mold. You can chill it in the refrigerator for about 11⁄2 hours, but chilling in an ice-water bath cuts the time and allows you to keep an eye on the progress.

• You should have 3 cups of combined orange segments, grape halves, and sliced strawberries for this salad. The exact proportion of each fruit doesn’t matter, and you can add other fruit, such as peeled, cored, and diced apples or pears or sliced strawberries.

Makes 8 to 12 servings

Make Ahead: The mold can be made up to 2 days ahead.

Ingredients:
• 1½ cups fruity red wine, such as Merlot
• Two 3-ounce packages raspberry-flavored gelatin
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon or lime juice
• 3 large seedless oranges
• 1 cup red or green seedless grapes (or a combination of both), cut into halves lengthwise
• 1 cup sliced raspberries
• Nonstick vegetable spray, for the mold

Preparation:
1. In a small saucepan, bring the wine to a boil over high heat. In a stainless steel or glass (not plastic) bowl, using a rubber spatula, stir the gelatin with the hot wine until the gelatin is completely dissolved, occasionally scraping down the sides of the bowl, about 2 minutes. Stir in 11 ⁄2 cups cold water and the lemon juice. Place the bowl in a larger bowl of iced water. Let stand, stirring occasionally, until the gelatin is partially set and a spoon briefly cuts a swath that allows you to see the bottom of the bowl, about 20 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, grate the zest from 1 orange and set aside. To cut all of the oranges into segments, use a serrated knife to cut the tops and bottoms from each orange. Following the curve of each orange, cut off the thick white pith where it meets the orange flesh. Working over a bowl, cut between the thin membranes to release the orange segments, letting them drop into the bowl. Drain the oranges before using.

3. Stir the orange segments, orange zest, grapes, and raspberries into the partially set gelatin. Lightly spray a 6-cup decorative mold with nonstick vegetable spray. Pour the gelatin into the mold and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate until set, at least 4 hours or overnight.

4. To unmold, run a knife around the inside edge of the mold to break the seal. Lightly moisten a serving platter (this will allow you to move the unmolded salad on the platter if you need to). Place the platter upside down over the top of the mold. Holding the mold and platter together, invert and shake firmly to unmold the salad. If the salad doesn’t unmold, dip the outside of the mold briefly (less than 5 seconds) in a bowl of warm tap water. Dry the outside of the mold and try again. Serve chilled.

This recipe was published in 'Christmas 101, Celebrate the Holiday Season from Christmas to New Year’s (Rick Rodgers) - p42 To p43'.

The Original Ambrosia

What my grandma called ambrosia was really a matter of opinion. It was concocted entirely of canned fruits and mortared with sour cream and marshmallows. This recipe takes ambrosia back to its roots, using fresh fruit only to make a superior dish that works as a first course, buffet salad, or dessert. The liquor is totally optional but a nice touch.

• Preparing fresh coconut is a labor of love, but like so many other kitchen chores, it’s easy to master once you get the hang of it. The coconut meat should be finely shredded—if it is too thick, it is unpleasant to eat. Unless you have a food processor with a fine shredding blade (which sometimes has to be special-ordered separately from the large shredding blade that comes with most machines), shred the coconut by hand on the medium-size holes of a box grater. Or shred chunks of the coconut in a handheld rotary grater.

• If desired, place regular sweetened flaked coconut in a wire sieve and rinse under hot water to remove the sugar coating. Drain and pat dry with paper towels.

Makes 12 servings

Make Ahead: The salad can be made up to 1 day ahead.

Ingredients:
• 1 medium coconut
• 6 medium seedless oranges
• 1 ripe pineapple
• 1⁄4 cup Grand Marnier, dark rum, or fresh orange juice

Preparation:
1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Pierce the eyes (the soft indentations on one end of the coconut) with a clean screwdriver and a hammer. Drain out the liquid. Place the coconut on a baking sheet. Bake for 30 minutes.

2. Using a hammer, rap the coconut around its equator to crack in half. Using a sturdy paring knife, pry the coconut in pieces from the shell. Using a vegetable peeler, remove the dark brown skin from the coconut. Shred the coconut. You should have 2 cups.

3. Using a serrated knife, cut off the top and bottom from each orange. Following the curve of each orange, cut off the thick skin, including the white pith, where it meets the orange flesh. Working over a bowl, cut between the membranes to remove the segments, letting them drop into the bowl.

4. Cut off the top of the pineapple, including the leafy crown. Cut the thick rind from the pineapple where it meets the flesh. Remove the dark eyes from the flesh. Quarter the pineapple lengthwise, and cut the hard core from each quarter. Cut each quarter lengthwise again, then into bite-size pieces.

5. In a large glass bowl, toss together the pineapple, orange rounds, coconut, and Grand Marnier. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate until well chilled, about 2 hours. (If preparing the salad ahead, cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate.) Serve chilled.

This recipe was published in 'Christmas 101, Celebrate the Holiday Season from Christmas to New Year’s (Rick Rodgers) - p41 To p42'.

Cranberry-Orange Vinaigrette

Ingredients:
• 1⁄4 cup Cranberry Balsamic Vinegar (recipe follows) or regular balsamic vinegar
• 1 tablespoon light brown sugar (optional, if using regular balsamic vinegar)
• Grated zest of 1 orange
• 1⁄2 teaspoon salt
• 1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 3⁄4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 4 large oranges
• 1 small red onion, thinly sliced
• 2 heads Belgian endive, wiped with a moist paper towel (do not rinse)
• 1 large head red leaf lettuce, torn into bite-size pieces
• 1 medium head radicchio, torn into bite-size pieces
• 1⁄2 cup dried cranberries

Preparation:
1. To make the dressing, in a medium bowl, whisk together the vinegar, brown sugar, if using, the orange zest, salt, and pepper. Gradually whisk in the oil. (If making the dressing ahead, cover and refrigerate. Whisk well before serving.)

2. Using a serrated knife, cut off the top and bottom from each orange. Following the curve of each orange, cut off the thick skin, including the white pith, where it meets the orange flesh. Working over a bowl, cut between the membranes to remove the segments, letting them drop into the bowl.

3. About 30 minutes before serving, in a small bowl, toss the onion with 2 tablespoons of the dressing. Cover and set aside.

4. Using a sharp knife, cut the endive crosswise into 1⁄2-inch-wide pieces. Separate the endive pieces into strips, discarding any tough, solid center pieces.

5. When ready to serve, in a large bowl, toss the lettuce, radicchio, and endive with the dressing. Place an equal amount of salad onto each plate. Top with the orange segments and red onion, and sprinkle with the cranberries. Serve immediately.

Cranberry Balsamic Vinegar:
In a medium, nonaluminum saucepan, combine 2 cups supermarket-quality balsamic vinegar, one 12-ounce bag rinsed and sorted cranberries, and 1⁄3 cup packed light brown sugar. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the vinegar begins to simmer and the cranberries have collapsed, about 20 minutes. Strain through a wire sieve placed over a medium bowl, pressing gently on the cranberries to extract all of the juice and vinegar, but do not press any pulp through the sieve. Let drain for a few minutes. Transfer to glass bottles for gift giving. Makes about 2½ cups.

This recipe was published in 'Christmas 101, Celebrate the Holiday Season from Christmas to New Year’s (Rick Rodgers) - p39 To p40'.

Orange and Red Onion Salad with Cranberry - Orange Vinaigrette

Cranberry balsamic vinegar is one of my favorite gifts from my kitchen. It takes no time to make, and can be multiplied as many times as you have room in your pot. And it’s a great way to perk up a so-so bottle of inexpensive supermarket balsamic vinegar. (It is not intended to be made with a fine artisanal balsamico.) This is a light, refreshing opener, and very appropriate for a holiday meal that more than likely will be on the rich and heavy side. A short marinating period helps mellow the pungent red onion.

Makes 8 servings

Make Ahead: The Cranberry Balsamic Vinegar must be made 1 week ahead; the dressing and oranges can be refrigerated up to 1 day ahead.

Ingredients For Cranberry - Orange Vinaigrette:
• 1⁄4 cup Cranberry Balsamic Vinegar (recipe follows) or regular balsamic vinegar
• 1 tablespoon light brown sugar (optional, if using regular balsamic vinegar)
• Grated zest of 1 orange
• 1⁄2 teaspoon salt
• 1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 3⁄4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 4 large oranges
• 1 small red onion, thinly sliced
• 2 heads Belgian endive, wiped with a moist paper towel (do not rinse)
• 1 large head red leaf lettuce, torn into bite-size pieces
• 1 medium head radicchio, torn into bite-size pieces
• 1⁄2 cup dried cranberries

Preparation:
1. To make the dressing, in a medium bowl, whisk together the vinegar, brown sugar, if using, the orange zest, salt, and pepper. Gradually whisk in the oil. (If making the dressing ahead, cover and refrigerate. Whisk well before serving.)

2. Using a serrated knife, cut off the top and bottom from each orange. Following the curve of each orange, cut off the thick skin, including the white pith, where it meets the orange flesh. Working over a bowl, cut between the membranes to remove the segments, letting them drop into the bowl.

3. About 30 minutes before serving, in a small bowl, toss the onion with 2 tablespoons of the dressing. Cover and set aside.

4. Using a sharp knife, cut the endive crosswise into 1⁄2-inch-wide pieces. Separate the endive pieces into strips, discarding any tough, solid center pieces.

5. When ready to serve, in a large bowl, toss the lettuce, radicchio, and endive with the dressing. Place an equal amount of salad onto each plate. Top with the orange segments and red onion, and sprinkle with the cranberries. Serve immediately.

Cranberry Balsamic Vinegar:
In a medium, nonaluminum saucepan, combine 2 cups supermarket-quality balsamic vinegar, one 12-ounce bag rinsed and sorted cranberries, and 1⁄3 cup packed light brown sugar. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the vinegar begins to simmer and the cranberries have collapsed, about 20 minutes. Strain through a wire sieve placed over a medium bowl, pressing gently on the cranberries to extract all of the juice and vinegar, but do not press any pulp through the sieve. Let drain for a few minutes. Transfer to glass bottles for gift giving. Makes about 2½ cups.

This recipe was published in 'Christmas 101, Celebrate the Holiday Season from Christmas to New Year’s (Rick Rodgers) - p39 To p40'.

Mushroom and Parmesan Salad

Topped with curls of Parmesan cheese, this salad has a festive look especially suited for the holidays. For the best flavor, use only real Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese—look for the identifying stamp on the rind.

Makes 8 servings

Make Ahead: The dressing can be made up to 1 day ahead.

Ingredients For Dressing:
• 1⁄4 cup fresh lemon juice
• 1⁄2 teaspoon salt
• 1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup olive oil

Ingredients:
• 2½ pounds fresh white mushrooms, thinly sliced
• 1⁄3 cup finely chopped shallots
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
• 8 cups (about 7 ounces) mixed baby greens (mesclun)
• One 4-ounce chunk Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Preparation:
1. To make the dressing, in a medium bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Gradually whisk in the oil. (If making the dressing ahead, cover and refrigerate. Whisk well before using.)

2. Just before serving, in a medium bowl, toss 3⁄4 cup of the dressing with the mushrooms, shallots, and parsley. In a large bowl, toss the greens with the remaining 1⁄2 cup dressing. On each of 8 large plates, place portions of the mushroom salad and greens side by side. Using a vegetable peeler, shave curls of Parmigiano-Reggiano over each salad. (You won’t use all of the cheese, but you need a good-size piece to make the curls.) Serve immediately.

This recipe was published in 'Christmas 101, Celebrate the Holiday Season from Christmas to New Year’s (Rick Rodgers) - p38 To p39'.

Cauliflower Salad with Red Pesto Dressing

Cauliflower is a very useful winter vegetable that is very often (and unfairly) demoted to the sidedish category, where it can be treated with apathy. It makes a terrific salad that lives up to my strict standards for a buffet dish: It looks great, tastes great, and holds up well at room temperature.

Makes 8 to 12 servings

Make Ahead: The salad can be made up to 1 day ahead.

Ingredients for Red Pesto Dressing:
• 1 cup (6 ounces) oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, drained
• ¼ cup balsamic vinegar
• 1 garlic clove, crushed through a press
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• ¼ teaspoon crushed hot red pepper
• 1 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 2 medium heads cauliflower (3 pounds total)
• Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

Preparation:
1. To make the dressing, place the sun-dried tomatoes, vinegar, garlic, salt, and crushed red pepper in a food processor fitted with the metal blade. With the machine running, gradually add the oil in a thin stream, and process until the dressing has thickened. Set aside.

2. Trim the cauliflower and cut into bitesize florets. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the cauliflower and cook until barely tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Drain, rinse under cold running water, and drain well.

3. Transfer the cauliflower to a large bowl and toss with the dressing. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least 2 hours. Sprinkle with the parsley before serving.

This recipe was published in 'Christmas 101, Celebrate the Holiday Season from Christmas to New Year’s (Rick Rodgers) - p38'.

Salt-Roasted Yukon Gold Potatoes with Caviar and Crème Fraîche

This recipe was published in 'Christmas 101, Celebrate the Holiday Season from Christmas to New Year’s (Rick Rodgers) - p35'.

When you bring out the caviar, your guests will know that you hold them in high regard. Good caviar is never inexpensive, so I reserve it for my best friends and very special occasions. The humble potato is somehow the perfect match for the elegant caviar. Here is one of the easiest, yet most satisfying, first courses around.

• Yukon gold potatoes are my first choice for this dish. They have a yellow-gold, buttery flesh that bakes beautifully. Small russet, Finn, or Maine potatoes are an alternative. Choose small-to-medium potatoes—this is supposed to be an appetizer, not a side dish to a steak.

• Baking the potatoes on a bed of kosher salt helps draw out the moisture from the potatoes, giving them an especially fluffy texture. If you can’t find kosher salt, use large-crystal sea salt, available at natural food stores and many supermarkets. Table salt will work, but not as well.

• The amount of caviar you use is up to you. Caviar is rich. While you will need at least 1 ounce per person, more than 2 ounces will be excessive. Check your bank account, and take it from there.

• Crème fraîche is easiest to describe as French sour cream, but it is more buttery and less tangy, and it won’t overpower the caviar like American sour cream might. It can be found in many supermarkets or specialty food stores with refrigerated food departments. It is easy to make your own, and I’ve included the recipe.

• Serve the crème fraîche or sour cream next to the potato, not dolloped on top. And sprinkle the chives around the potato and crème fraîche, not indiscriminately. That way each guest can decide how much to use—some people prefer to savor the clean, saline flavor of caviar with as few accoutrements as possible, but others like to gild the lily.

Makes 4 servings

It Wouldn’t Be the Holidays Without . . . Caviar
Rare, costly, sublime—caviar is all of these. There are few foods that state elegance more implicitly. But with the recent United Nations ban on the exportation of caviar from the Caspian Sea (the traditional source of the finest caviar), those of us who love the little fish eggs learned to look elsewhere.

Caviar became a holiday luxury because of its traditional processing cycle, with one of the main two cycles occurring in October. Allowing a month for processing and shipping, the caviar would arrive just in time for Thanksgiving. Caspian caviar was processed from sturgeon eggs; the variety of sturgeon (beluga, osetra, or sevruga) designated the size, color, and flavor of the eggs.

Today’s American caviar, obtained from sturgeon and other fish that are often farmed, is identified by the type of fish. At online caviar stores, you will find a few different kinds of American sturgeon caviar, each with its own flavor profile. I have more than one friend who swears by paddleback (a relative of sturgeon) caviar, comparing it to the best beluga. Whitefish caviar is golden, with crunchy, tiny eggs. Salmon caviar has large red “berries.” When I am feeling flush, I serve a couple of different caviars so guests can compare. Lumpfish caviar is the dyed black stuff at supermarkets—it’s not very good, and the dye can stain your lips. Don’t use it for a special holiday dish.

When serving caviar, simplicity is the key. If you want to serve it as an hors d’oeuvre, perhaps the best way is to spoon the caviar onto toasts. (Cut rounds from firm, white sandwich bread and toast lightly for an attractive canapé.) Or serve the caviar in a traditional caviar servoir, which will keep the eggs ice-cold. You can simulate the servoir by nestling a glass bowl in a larger bowl of ice. Caviar aficionados insist that metal spoons never touch caviar, for fear that the metal will transfer its flavor to the delicate morsels. They recommend bone, wood, or ivory spoons, but I use a Bakelite espresso spoon. No matter how you serve caviar, don’t overwhelm its saline flavor and pleasantly crunchy texture with lots of competing ingredients. If you want to extend it, offer small bowls of minced onion, crème fraîche or sour cream, separately chopped hardboiled egg yolks and whites, and, of course, thin wedges of lemon. But do not encourage your guests to look at the caviar as an upscale salad bar.

Caviar is very delicate and requires very careful handling and constant refrigeration; otherwise the flavor and texture will suffer. Find a trustworthy local purveyor, preferably one with a large turnover of product, or use a reliable source from the Web, such as www.lapetitepearle.com.

Ingredients:
• About 2 cups kosher salt or coarse sea salt, for baking
• 4 small Yukon gold potatoes (4 ounces each), scrubbed but not peeled, pierced a few times with a fork
• 4 to 8 ounces caviar, to taste
• ½ cup crème fraîche (see Note) or sour cream, at room temperature
• Chopped fresh chives, for garnish

Preparation:
1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400°F. Spread enough salt over an 8-inch square baking dish to make a thick layer at least ½ inch deep. Nestle the potatoes in the salt. Bake until the potatoes are tender, about 45 minutes.

2. Brush the salt from the potatoes. Place each potato on a salad plate. Cut the potatoes lengthwise, then squeeze to open them up. Spoon equal amounts of caviar on each potato. Dollop crème fraîche alongside each potato. Sprinkle the chives on each plate around the potatoes and crème fraîche. Serve immediately.

Note:
To make your own crème fraîche, start at least 2 days before using. Fill a medium bowl with boiling water, let stand for 5 minutes, then drain and dry the bowl. Mix 1 cup heavy cream (not ultra-pasteurized) with 2 tablespoons buttermilk in the bowl. Cover loosely with plastic wrap. Let stand in a warm place until thickened, at least 12 hours and up to 24 hours, depending on the temperature. Do not let the crème fraîche get too thick, as it will thicken further when refrigerated. Transfer to a jar or airtight container and refrigerate at least overnight. The crème fraîche can be kept, refrigerated, for up to 2 weeks.

Salmon and Spinach Terrine with Cucumber-Dill Sauce

This Side recipe was published in 'Martha Stewart Living Radio Thanks giving Hotline Recipes 2010 - p34'.

Gorgeous and elegant, this is a first course for your finest dinner party. For a fancy appetizer, it comes together very quickly, and has the added attraction of being totally make ahead. It can also be served as a spread for a crowd at a cocktail party buffet.

Makes 12 servings

Make Ahead: The terrine must be chilled at least 4 hours or overnight; it can be made up to 2 days ahead of serving. The sauce can be made up to 1 day ahead.

Ingredients for TERRINE:
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
• 3 tablespoons finely chopped shallots
• 1⁄2 cup dry vermouth
• 20 ounces skinless salmon fillets, cut into pieces
• 4 ounces sea or bay scallops
• 1⁄2 cup fresh bread crumbs (make in a food processor or blender)
• 1 large egg
• 1 and 1⁄4 teaspoons salt
• 1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
• 1⁄8 teaspoon hot red pepper sauce
• 1 and 1⁄2 cups heavy cream
• One 10-ounce package frozen chopped spinach, thawed, squeezed well to remove liquid

Ingredients for CUCUMBER-DILL SAUCE:
• 1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1⁄4-inch dice
Salt
• 3⁄4 cup sour cream
• 2 tablespoons milk
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
• 1⁄8 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
• Fresh watercress or dill sprigs, for garnish

Preparation:
1. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Lightly oil an '8 and 1⁄2' x '4 and 1⁄2' x '2 and 1⁄2'-inch loaf pan. Line the bottom of the pan with waxed paper.

2. To make the terrine, in a small saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Add the shallots and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the vermouth and cook until reduced to 1 tablespoon. Remove from the heat and cool.

3. In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, pulse the salmon and scallops until finely chopped. Add the shallot mixture, bread crumbs, egg, salt, white pepper, and hot pepper sauce. With the machine running, gradually add the heavy cream. Transfer 1 cup of the purée to a medium bowl and stir in the spinach.

4. Spread half of the salmon purée in the loaf pan, then spread the spinach purée over the salmon. Top with the remaining salmon purée. Cover with a piece of buttered waxed paper, buttered side down.

5. Place the loaf pan in a larger roasting pan and place in the oven. Add enough hot water to the roasting pan to come 1⁄2 inch up the sides of the loaf pan. Bake until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the terrine registers 140°F, about 1 hour. Cool completely in the pan on a wire rack. Remove the waxed paper from the top of the terrine, then invert and unmold the terrine and remove the waxed paper from the bottom. Tightly wrap the terrine in plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight.

6. Meanwhile, make the sauce: In a small bowl, toss the cucumber with 1⁄2 teaspoon salt. Let stand for 30 minutes. Place in a colander and rinse well. Pat dry with paper towels. Squeeze the cucumber to remove excess moisture.

7. In a medium bowl, mix together the cucumber, sour cream, milk, dill, and pepper. Season with salt to taste (you may not need very much, as the cucumber has already been salted). Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled, at least 1 hour.

8. Cut the terrine into 12 slices. Divide slices among 12 dinner plates. Spoon equal amounts of the sauce alongside each slice. Garnish with the watercress. Serve immediately.

Marinated Shrimp with White Wine Beurre Blanc

Beurre blanc means “white butter” in French, and it is nothing more than cold water whisked into a wine reduction to create an ivory-colored sauce. The secret is to warm the butter over low heat, so it softens to a creamy, pourable sauce without completely melting. Here it is served with marinated, broiled shrimp for a sophisticated first course. If the weather is cooperating, grill the shrimp outdoors.

Makes 8 servings

Make Ahead: The shrimp need to marinate for 30 minutes to 1 hour; the sauce base can be made up to 4 hours ahead.

Ingredients for SHRIMP:
• 1 cup dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio
• 1⁄4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots
• 1⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
• 24 jumbo, colossal, or U-16 shrimp, peeled and deveined, with tail segment left attached
• Nonstick vegetable oil spray

Ingredients for BEURRE BLANC:
• 2 cups dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio
• 1⁄4 cup coarsely chopped shallots
• 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
• 1⁄4 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
• 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, chilled, cut into 16 pieces
• Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

• 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh chives
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh tarragon
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley

Preparation:
1. To prepare the shrimp, whisk together the wine, oil, shallots, and pepper in a small bowl. Pour into a self-sealing plastic bag. Add the shrimp and refrigerate, turning often, for at least 30 minutes but no longer than 1 hour.

2. To begin the sauce, bring the wine, shallots, vinegar, and peppercorns to a boil in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan over high heat. Boil until the liquid is reduced to 1⁄4 cup, about 20 minutes. (If preparing the sauce base ahead, cool, cover, and keep at room temperature. Reheat to simmering before proceeding.)

3. Position the broiler rack 6 inches from the heat source and preheat the broiler.

4. To finish the sauce, reduce the heat under the saucepan with the sauce base to very low. One piece at a time, whisk the butter into the sauce base, allowing the butter to soften slowly into a creamy sauce, and letting each piece melt before adding another. If the butter heats too quickly, remove the saucepan from the heat and whisk briskly. Strain the sauce through a wire sieve into a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. (The sauce can be made up to 15 minutes ahead, covered with aluminum foil, and kept in a warm place. Do not reheat. The sauce is not meant to be piping hot.)

5. Remove the shrimp from the marinade and discard the marinade. Spray the broiler rack with vegetable oil spray. Spread the shrimp on the broiler rack. Broil, turning once, until the shrimp are opaque, about 5 minutes.

6. Mix together the chives, tarragon, and parsley in a small bowl. For each serving, spoon equal amounts of the sauce in the centers of 8 warmed salad plates. Arrange 3 shrimp on each plate, interlocking the shrimp tails so the shrimp stand up. Sprinkle with the herbs and serve immediately.

This recipe was published in 'Christmas 101 - p33'.