Scalloped Oysters with Mushrooms and Leeks

While this is neither soup nor salad, scalloped oysters are a first-course mainstay of the Yankee holiday table. Raw oysters and other shellfish on the half-shell show up at many Christmas dinners, but frankly, most of my friends prefer their bivalves cooked. Scalloped oysters are usually a very simple affair of creamed oysters layered with crumbled cracker crumbs, and not much else. This version is enhanced with mushrooms and leeks and buttery bread cubes. The dish should be assembled just before serving, but the components can be prepared ahead of time.

• For this recipe, instead of shucking fresh oysters, I use containers of preshucked oysters. Buy large, plump “select”-size oysters. Smaller oysters will take less time to cook through, and may be overcooked by the time the cream comes to a boil in the oven.

• If you wish, bake the scalloped oysters in individual servings. Butter eight 1-cup ramekins or 11⁄4-cup (300-ml) large glass custard cups. Place a layer of the bread cubes in the ramekins. Divide the oysters and mushroom mixture evenly among the ramekins. Pour in the heavy cream–oyster juice mixture. Top with equal amounts of the bread cubes. Bake until the cream bubbles, about 15 minutes. Top with chopped parsley.

• When preparing the leeks, remember that they are usually very sandy and need to be well rinsed. Trim the leeks, and chop the white and pale green parts only, discarding the leafy dark green tops. Place the chopped leeks in a wire sieve and rinse well under cold running water, rubbing between your fingers to separate and expose the leek layers to the water. Drain well.

Makes 8 servings

Make Ahead: The bread cubes can be made up to 1 day ahead; the vegetable mixture can be made up to 4 hours ahead.

Ingredients:
• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 10 slices firm white sandwich bread, cut into 1⁄4-inch cubes
• 12 ounces white mushrooms, sliced
• 1 large leek, chopped, white and light green parts only (1 cup)
• 1⁄4 teaspoon salt
• 1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
• 1 and 1⁄2 pints shucked “select” oysters
• 3⁄4 cup heavy cream
• Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

Preparation:
1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 375°F. Lightly butter an 11 and 1⁄2 × 8-inch (2-quart) baking dish.

2. In a small saucepan over low heat, melt 4 tablespoons of the butter. In a rimmed baking sheet, toss the butter with the bread cubes. Bake, stirring occasionally, until the bread cubes are very lightly toasted and crisp, about 15 minutes. Set aside. (The bread cubes can be prepared, stored in an airtight container at room temperature, for up to 1 day.)

3. In a large skillet, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and cook until they give off their liquid, about 4 minutes. Stir in the leek, salt, and pepper. Cook until the leeks soften and the mushroom liquid evaporates, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. (If preparing the vegetable mixture ahead, cool, cover, and keep at room temperature.)

4. In a large sieve or colander set over a bowl, drain the oysters, reserving the oyster liquid. In the same skillet, boil the oyster liquid over high heat until reduced to about 1⁄4 cup, about 3 minutes. Stir in the heavy cream and set aside.

5. Layer half of the bread cubes in the bottom of the prepared baking dish. Top with the oysters, then the mushroom mixture. Pour over the heavy cream mixture. Top with the remaining bread cubes. Place the baking dish on a baking sheet.

6. Bake until the cream bubbles and the oysters turn opaque, about 25 minutes. If the cubes are browning too deeply, cover loosely with aluminum foil.

7. To serve, spoon the scalloped oysters onto salad plates and sprinkle with the parsley. Serve hot.

This recipe was published in 'Christmas 101 - p32'.